Start at Náměstí Míru
Náměstí Míru, anchored by the tall neo-Gothic Church of St Ludmila, is the natural starting point — a proper neighbourhood square with a small park at its centre, ringed by independent cafés rather than chains. Grab a coffee here before you start walking; several of the square's cafés roast their own beans and treat the ritual seriously without being precious about it.
Work your way toward Jiřího z Poděbrad
The walk between the two main squares is where Vinohrady's residential character shows itself best — ornate Art Nouveau apartment blocks, small independent shops, and a noticeably slower pace than the centre. Jiřího z Poděbrad square, dominated by the striking Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord, hosts a modest farmers' market on weekend mornings and is ringed by a good concentration of bakeries and casual restaurants worth a stop regardless of the market schedule.
What to actually order
This isn't a beer-hall crawl (see our beer halls guide for that) — it's built around good coffee, bakery pastries, and the kind of unfussy neighbourhood restaurant that doesn't bother printing a menu in five languages because it isn't relying on tourist footfall. Expect better prices and noticeably less hurried service than anywhere within sight of Old Town Square, covered in our Czech cuisine guide.
Extending it into Žižkov
If you've got energy left, the crawl connects naturally into neighbouring Žižkov, where the same low-key, local character shifts toward a livelier bar and pub scene as evening comes on — see our full Vinohrady & Žižkov guide for the neighbourhood-level picture, and the Žižkov TV Tower as a natural endpoint with a view over everywhere you've just walked.